The Fortezza of Verrucole, inhabited by heroes, poets and magicians!


In Garfagnana, close to the village of St. Romano, you can find a massive fortress, built in the Middle-Ages to watch over an important area for the control of roads that connected Lucca with Parma and Modena. At first, it was the base of Gerardenghi family, feudal lords who controlled this part of Garfagnana, but later the city of Lucca expanded its own territory up to here.
The relationship with the city weren’t friendly and in 1170 b.C, local families rebelled against the Tax on Salt imposed by Lucca and allied with Pisa, the historic enemy of the city. Lucca sent an army of 3k soldiers (just to make it clear who was in charge..) led by the Bishop! Yes, you got it.. the Bishop of Lucca, who leaved the miter and pastoral and weared helmet and sword! Despite of it, the 100 defenders inside the fortress were defeated only after six months of hard fights. After the era of feudal lords, the fortress saw the rise of mercenaries!
First, it was the time of the great leader Castruccio Castracani, who in exile became lord of  Lucca, conquering lands in Garfagnana and much part of northern Tuscany. Then, in 1328 b.C, after his death, Spinetta Malaspina, a ghibelline mercenary  marquis, took possession of the fortress; Malaspina was also opponent of Castruccio Castracani and was born in the same fortress that previously Castruccio conquerred with all the rest of Garfagnana. A sweet revenge!
After a period of neglect, the fortress was acquired by Este family, Dukes of Modena, who in 1429 b.C took possession of a part of Garfagnana. After bishops warriors, feudal lords and ruthless leaders, Verrucole Fortress was visited by an important poet: between 1522 and 1525 b.C, the famous Ludovico Ariosto, lived there after writing the adventures of Orlando. During that period, he had to stop writing for a while, to fight against local inhabitants and move his army against many bandits. So, it was a hard life for a poet!
Later, another fortress equipped with a garrison was built on the opposite side of the hill to help the medieval castle, and in the second half of the 16th century both buildings were transformed into a unique large renaissance fortress, that one that we can see today; the castle is connected with bastions by massive walls and old underground galleries. This beautiful and recently restored place was also a terrific prison and maybe lived there a wizard! The chronicles tell that in the 17th century, Francesco Accorsini, commander of the fortress, was condemned by the Holy Inquisition in Modena for magics and witchcraft. Perhaps his ghost still flyes in the prison... but don’t worry: Tuscany Ride a Bike offers his visit in daylight, to enjoy even the splendid landscape!

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